We love surprising the kids with magical trips to new destinations—and even better if that trip includes a Disney visit too!
By November 2022, we were in our fourth year in Asia and, due to COVID, had still not made it to any Asian Disney parks. That had to change.
So, after decorating the condo far too early with Disney-themed Christmas decorations, we had the kids open an early Christmas present each.
Inside, of course, were Disney ears and clothing. They had no idea what that meant at first, but soon enough, it clicked—we were heading to Tokyo Disney for the very first time!
Being mid-November, Christmas would be in full swing at the parks, and we were beyond excited to witness our first Disney Christmas—not to mention finally visiting Tokyo, Japan. We had booked our flights the day the country dropped its quarantine rules.
Japan, from our home base in Penang, Malaysia, is a surprisingly long journey. With limited flight options at the time, we had to take three flights: Penang to KL, KL to Manila (Philippines), and finally, Manila to Tokyo.
In total, despite the relatively short distance, we would be flying for almost 16 hours. Fortunately, we had only a short transit time in Manila—which, is one of our least favourite airports in the world.
Soon enough, though, we arrived in one of the most efficient airports and countries worldwide. But after such a long journey, we were exhausted, and it was well past bedtime for all of us, so appreciating that fact had long passed
We had booked a nearby airport hotel for the first night since we were arriving in the evening. Even though we knew Japan's train system was excellent, we opted for a black cab to make the first leg of our journey smoother.
Unfortunately, this turned out to be a mistake we’ve made too many times before—and one we are now determined to stop repeating.
The Universal Truth: Airport Taxis Are the Worst Welcome to Any Country
From being scammed in Egypt, refused in London, dropped off in the wrong place in the US, and pretty much trafficked in Greece, almost every non-pre-booked airport taxi journey we've taken has been unpleasant at best.
With the reputation of Japan’s taxi drivers, we felt safe in the knowledge that this airport taxi would be different.
It was not.
Unfortunately, I think our mistake was booking a hotel too close to the airport—the fare was likely too small to be worth the driver’s time, or perhaps even too small for him to bother folding down all four seats for his four passengers.
Once we were off, I even had to call him out for heading in the wrong direction (mistakenly, perhaps). He did not appreciate that. And when we finally arrived—well within sight of our hotel—he stopped in the middle of the road, popped the trunk, and threw our luggage out within sight but nowhere near the hotel’s drive-up reception.
It was a surreal experience, completely at odds with everything we had heard about Japanese hospitality—and nothing like every single interaction we had with anyone else thereafter.
We have now vowed to always pre-arrange airport pickups when visiting a new country and to never again rely on the dreaded airport taxi gamble.
A Proper Japanese Welcome
With that ordeal behind us, we took a deep breath and stepped into our first Japanese hotel—and, as expected, the welcome was nothing short of perfect.
We had chosen a cheap (as cheap as it gets in Tokyo) and cheerful, nondescript hotel for the first night—just somewhere to get some sleep.
But, as it turned out, we were pleasantly surprised and greeted by the first of what would become a couple of our favourite things in Japan.
Firstly, let me just say—mid-November heading into December in Tokyo is cold.
And for us? Seriously cold.
In the last four years, Texas in December had been the coldest we’d experienced—hovering around 10°C at most. But Japan? It was nearing freezing, and we felt every bit of it.
Thankfully, two little luxuries in every hotel we stayed in helped combat the chill:
Heated toilets and Complimentary pyjamas!
The premium-quality pyjamas were an absolute delight—so soft, so warm, and such an unexpected but brilliant touch to a hotel stay. Naturally, we immediately took selfies in them.
But the toilets—now they deserve an entire blog post of their own.
Let’s just say, coming from Malaysia (which, sorry, is not known for its toilets in the best way), these were next-level.
Heated, vibrating seats. Privacy noise. Built-in bidets with adjustable water pressure. Air drying functions. Self-cleaning mechanisms.
It was like sitting on a throne of technology, and honestly, throughout our entire trip, I don’t think we found a single bad toilet—even in public parks and on public transport.
Japan, you do bathrooms right.
That night, we ventured out for dinner—but only as far as the nearby Family Mart. (Convenience stores in Asia, and especially in Japan, offer a surprisingly good selection of freshly cooked takeaway meals.) While we were there, we also picked up railcards for the trip ahead.
For adults, these were easily purchased from the automated machines, but for kids? They could only be obtained from a clerk—a small but slightly inconvenient quirk of the system.
Afterwards, we stopped for a quick play in the park, giving us all a chance to acclimatise to the cold—or at least attempt to.
Off to the Toy Story Hotel
The next morning, after breakfast, we set off for the newly opened Toy Story Hotel at Tokyo Disney, navigating our way through Tokyo’s under- and overground train system.
The easiest way to manage Tokyo’s public transport is with a JR card—essentially a general cash card that works on all trains, buses, and even in some shops and restaurants.
Tokyo’s rail system is, without a doubt, the best we’ve ever experienced—even easier to navigate than the London Underground. With Google Maps, we could see exactly which train to take, which carriage to board, and even which exit to use at our destination. It was effortless.
Disney’s rail line connects at JR Maihama Station, where we stepped into a fully themed Lina Bell carriage. (In Japan and other Asian Disney parks, Duffy, Lina Bell, Stella Lou, and Shelly Mae are hugely popular—far more so than in Western Disney parks.)
Within ten minutes, we arrived at the Toy Story Hotel stop, walking up the entrance lined with oversized toy models. The entire entrance is actually a game board, making you feel the size of a game piece yourself.
Of course, Woody, Buzz, and the beloved Toy Story characters take centre stage, but the other props—massive dice, jigsaw pieces, and board game tokens—evoke every childhood game night. And at night, when the lighting makes all the colours pop, it becomes even more magical.
The Best Disney Hotel We've Ever Stayed In
Check-in was a long process, so the kids and I passed the time by playing a life-sized board game in the lobby, rolling the dice via an app. Meanwhile, we explored the amazingly themed gift shop and hotel spaces.
This hotel was, without a doubt, the best-themed Disney hotel we have ever stayed in.
The concept—where guests are toy-sized, and everything around you is oversized and towering—is executed so perfectly that it feels completely immersive. Every tiny detail is on point, and as lifelong Disney fans, we were blown away.
Once check-in was complete, we received our Buzz Lightyear pyjamas, complete with "Andy" printed on one slipper, and learned that our room would be Woody’s Round-Up themed.
We ended the night with dinner at Lotso’s, followed by some photo opportunities on the hotel terrace, surrounded by even more giant toy props. Then, it was off to bed, ready for an early start at Disneyland the next morning.
First Stop: Tokyo Disneyland
Tokyo Disney has two parks: Disneyland – Modelled closely after California’s original Disneyland, featuring many classic rides and DisneySea – A more grown-up, adventure-themed park, inspired by a Mediterranean coastal town, with rides based on exploration and discovery.
We were intrigued by DisneySea but decided to start our trip with two days at Disneyland—the park we knew best.
Unlike the open Main Streets of other Disney parks, Tokyo Disneyland’s entrance leads visitors under a Victorian-style glass-covered arcade called the World Bazaar. This is designed to protect guests from Japan’s extreme weather, but it also perfectly complements Disney’s vintage theme.
At this time of year, the park was beautifully decorated for Christmas, and we were immediately greeted by a 15-meter-high Christmas tree standing proudly at its centre.
One of the highlights was finally experiencing The Haunted Mansion: Nightmare Before Christmas overlay—one of my favourite childhood films, yet a version of the ride we had never managed to see in any other park.
The sound of Christmas music played softly as we floated along with the crowd, which, to our surprise, wasn’t overly busy. Japan had only just reopened to tourism, so we were lucky to avoid the huge queues that Tokyo Disney is known for.
However, there was a flip side. Masks were still mandatory, both inside and outside, and eating while queuing was not allowed—which was a shame, as it’s a trick we often use to pass the time in long lines.
Unique Attractions in Tokyo Disneyland
Tokyo Disneyland has many of the same rides as California, Paris, and Disney World’s Magic Kingdom, but there were a few standout differences.
Pooh’s Hunny Hunt – A trackless, randomised ride that instantly became one of our all-time favourites, despite none of us being Winnie the Pooh fans. Every ride was completely different, and we were mystified by how Disney had achieved some of its effects—so much so that we rode it multiple times.
Monsters, Inc. Ride & Go Seek – A unique twist on the ride-and-shoot attractions found in other parks, making it a fun and interactive experience.
The newest ride, Beauty and the Beast, was also trackless, and on our first day, we learned that it would close for maintenance the following week. That meant we had only one chance to ride it, so it became our mission to get on it that day.
Even though the park wasn’t overly crowded, this ride still had a queue time of over two hours—so we opted to buy a fast pass.
And it was worth it.
Once again, the trackless motion made every experience feel unexpected and magical, and the animatronics were so lifelike that we were in awe.
We only got to ride it once, but it left a lasting impression.
Cultural Differences at Tokyo Disneyland
Tokyo Disneyland offers unique live shows, which, while entertaining, were almost entirely in Japanese—making them a little tricky to follow. Even without understanding most of the dialogue, we could generally pick up on cues for laughter, applause, and dramatic moments. However, what struck us was that our fellow Japanese guests didn’t seem to react much at all.
The reserved nature of the audience made the shows feel a little flat, and we genuinely felt sorry for the performers, who were putting on an incredible show with very little audience energy in return.
Communication & Disney Staff
On the whole, communication in Japan was not as easy as in other Asian countries, as very little English is spoken. That said, we found the Japanese people to be incredibly accommodating, always making an effort to help us understand.
At Disney, in particular, staff were clearly trained in simple, easy-to-understand sign language-like gestures for repetitive instructions. This meant that even we, ignorant Brits, had no trouble following along.
The Merch Obsession
Beyond the language barrier, we noticed some fascinating cultural differences between Western Disney parks and Tokyo Disneyland—and one of the biggest was the merch obsession.
In Tokyo, shopping seems to be a bigger attraction than the rides themselves. The shops were so popular that they even required a fast pass to enter, with queues longer than those for some of the rides!
But it wasn’t just what people were buying—it was how they were carrying it.
Almost every visitor seemed to enter the park carrying a giant plush character—not in a bag, not as a souvenir to be taken home, but simply to be carried around all day like a companion. Many guests also had character-themed bags covered in smaller plushies, and some took it even further—dressing head-to-toe as the character they were carrying, often complete with oversized mascot-style fluffy heads.
Even stranger? It wasn’t just one or two people doing this—it was everywhere. And often, it wasn’t just one person in costume, but entire matching groups dressed as identical Disney characters.
It was quite a sight—especially since many of them remained completely expressionless. Imagine a group of serious-faced business executives dressed head-to-toe as Donald Duck. Absolutely surreal.
Yet, moments later, while queuing for The Happy Ride with Baymax, the entire crowd broke into a perfectly synchronised song-and-dance routine—clearly a nationally known tradition. The contrast was fascinating.
The Popcorn Phenomenon
Another major cultural difference? The snack of choice—is not any one of the usual Japanese delights, which we love, but popcorn.
Popcorn was everywhere—in every flavour imaginable. Guests carried elaborate novelty popcorn holders (another piece of must-have merch) around their necks, with queues just as long as those for major rides.
We tried a few flavours and honestly? We didn’t really get the hype.
That said, we did love some of the other snacks—especially spiced apple cider, melon bread, and the iconic alien mochi, which we ate far, far too many of.
The Parades & More Unique Park Etiquette
We always make time for the parades at Disney, as they’re often a highlight for the kids, with characters interacting as they pass.
Tokyo Disneyland had its own Disney Christmas Stories Parade, featuring Disney characters in festive outfits, set to classic Christmas music. Then, after dark, the "Light the Night" parade took over, with floats illuminated by thousands of multicoloured LEDs.
Our favourites were Pete’s Dragon and The Genie, who magically transformed into random Disney characters as he passed by.
However, Tokyo Disneyland had two very unexpected parade customs that took us by surprise:
Guests sat on the floor instead of standing. Even in the rain, each person had a Disney-themed mini picnic blanket to sit on. While unusual to us, it actually worked perfectly—since the floats are raised, everyone gets a clear view, and children aren’t blocked by taller guests.
People started sitting down to reserve their spots 1–2 hours before the parade began. And yet, because everyone was already sitting, there didn’t seem to be a “best seat” advantage. Nevertheless, even in pouring rain, guests dutifully sat and waited.
It was perhaps this unwavering adherence to rules and etiquette—so characteristic of Japan—that made Tokyo Disneyland such a pleasure to visit.
It didn’t have the same energy as some other Disney parks, but the respect and politeness of the crowd made the day feel incredibly stress-free.
A Break from Disney
After two days at the park, we had plenty of time to repeat our favourite rides and experience anything we had missed.
By Friday, we were ready to explore Tokyo beyond Disney and looked forward to a long weekend break in the city.
We had an epic day trip to Mount Fuji booked for Sunday, so we used Friday and Saturday to take it easy, exploring some of Tokyo’s famous sights and enjoying the food scene.
Getting around was effortless with Tokyo’s underground train system, allowing us to jump from one side of the city to the other with ease. We were staying at Candeo Hotels, Roppongi, which was centrally located and within walking distance of several places on our must-see list.
Some of the highlights included:
Tokyo Tower – Japan’s iconic red-and-white landmark.
Ueno Park – A beautiful, spacious park filled with museums and shrines.
Tokyo Skytree – The tallest structure in Japan, with stunning panoramic views.
And, of course, in between sightseeing, we made it our mission to find delicious food.
One of our favourite discoveries was CoCoICHI, a great, inexpensive chain for a decent katsu curry—although we all preferred it without the meat, just with vegetables. Another unexpected find? Kebabs in Tokyo. Unlike the grilled or BBQ varieties we were used to, these were slow-cooked in a big pot, making them incredibly tender and flavourful.
The Mount Fuji Adventure – Hakone
By Sunday, we were ready for our Mount Fuji trip.
We were heading to Hakone via train—specifically, the Romancecar, a special express train with panoramic windows for scenic views.
Planning the trip was a little complicated. We already had rail passes, but they only covered the regular (slow) train to Hakone, not the express. To upgrade, we had to "top up" the fare.
A minor annoyance? Every passenger needed their own e-ticket device, which our kids (aged 7 and 9) didn’t have. This meant we had to pay for them twice—once online and then again in person. But once onboard, the trains were, as expected, immaculate, and the scenery outside the city was breathtaking.
As we left Tokyo’s skyscrapers behind, the landscape transformed. Rows of small, stubby houses flashed by in the suburbs, and in the distance, we caught brief, teasing glimpses of Mount Fuji through the gaps in the hills.
Upon arriving at Hakone-Yumoto Station, we stepped off the train and immediately headed for lunch at a small boutique hotel nearby. They offered a semi-buffet, and it was absolutely delicious.
Then came one of the funniest moments of the trip.
At some point during the meal, the kids disappeared to the toilet—only to be found lost inside the onsen (hot spring bath area). They had evendutifuly removed their shoes and socks, as instructed, never once questioning why this was necessary just for the toilet, it was just lucky we found them before they had completely stripped off!
The Hakone Circuit & The Volcanic Peak
After lunch, we continued our journey closer to Mount Fuji.
We had purchased the Hakone Free Pass, which includes a train, funicular, cable car, pirate ship, and bus—all forming a loop around Hakone Lake, offering spectacular views of Mount Fuji at various points.
Each mode of transport took us higher and higher into the mountains, with plenty to see and do at every transfer point.
The highlight? Reaching the active volcano.
As we neared the top, we could see and smell the gushing sulphur vents, and we even got to try onsen eggs, which are boiled in the volcanic waters.
Reaching the peak felt like a scene from an apocalyptic movie—one moment, we were enjoying a slow, tranquil climb, and the next, we crested the summit, only to be violently swayed by strong winds, with thick sulphuric clouds rolling around us.
The view of Mount Fuji was spectacular, but the freezing temperatures made us quickly snap our photos before jumping into the next cable car back down.
A Pirate Ship & Hakone Shrine at Dusk
After a few more transfers, we reached our final form of transport—a Royal Galley Pirate Ship, complete with life-sized crew statues in different poses scattered around the deck.
The ship crossed Hakone Lake in around 30 minutes, dropping us off at Hakone Shrine and its famous torii gate, just as dusk began to settle. The soft twilight, the still water, and the peaceful surroundings made the whole experience feel almost magical.
Once darkness and the cold fully set in, we boarded a bus back to the train station and eventually returned home to Roppongi.
Checking into Tokyo Disneyland Hotel
Come Monday morning, we were off to our next Disney hotel stay—this time at the Tokyo Disneyland Hotel.
Unlike the Toy Story Hotel, which required a short metro ride to the parks, Tokyo Disneyland Hotel is right at the entrance to Disneyland, making it the most convenient place to stay.
And, to our surprise, upon checking into our Victorian-inspired luxury room, we discovered that we had a partial view of Cinderella’s Castle.
Naturally, we immediately donned our pyjamas, made a cup of tea, grabbed some snacks from the hotel convenience store, and got cosy by the window, ready to watch the fireworks display.
And then… nothing.
We could hear fireworks, but we couldn’t see them.
Only then did it hit us—we had completely forgotten that Tokyo Disneyland has two castles, with the newly build Beast Castlewhichlooks almost identical to the main castle at night, but doesn’t actually have a fireworks display.
Still, we enjoyed our snacks and tea and got a good night’s sleep, ready for our first day at DisneySea in the morning.
DisneySea – A Vintage Dream
Since we had arrived so soon after Japan reopened, we were pleasantly surprised to find low crowds at DisneySea, even though it typically attracts more visitors than Disneyland.
Like Disneyland, the Christmas decorations were not overly abundant, but DisneySea had a natural vintage charm—almost like stepping into the world of Pixar’s Luca.
Exploring DisneySea
That morning was particularly cold, so our first stop was for hot chocolate to warm up as we explored.
DisneySea has some of the best theming I have ever seen, though its theme is not traditionally "Disney". Like Emma felt, this might make it less appealing to those expecting classic Disney nostalgia.
Instead of the usual themed "lands" like Adventureland or Tomorrowland, DisneySea is divided into "ports", including the American Waterfront, Mediterranean Harbor and Mermaid Lagoon.
The park feels huge, and although it is the third-largest Disney park in the world, it’s still half the size of Epcot. However, because the lagoon is shaped like a “V”, with multiple paths, levels, castles, and caves to explore, it feels even bigger.
One of our favourite areas was the steampunk-inspired section at the heart of the park, styled in a Jules Verne aesthetic. This is where two of the most popular attractions are located; Journey to the Center of the Earth (sadly under construction during our visit) and 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea
The latter was brilliant and we rode it a few times, also the kids definitely enjoyed ride far more than they enjoyed the movie!
Attractions We Loved
Some of our other favourite rides included:
Sinbad’s Storybook Voyage – A charming boat ride adventure, very reminiscent of It’s a Small World but with a stronger narrative.
Raging Spirits – The only Disney roller coaster (outside of Rock 'n' Roller Coaster) with an inverted loop.
We also checked out The Magic Lamp Theater, but to be honest, this show was a little underwhelming.
Lunch with an Unexpected View
We had booked a buffet lunch at Oceano, which, by complete coincidence, happened to take place at the same time as the Christmas Extravaganza show on the lagoon.
This show featured classic Disney characters like Mickey, Minnie, Donald, and Daisy, along with Duffy and ShellieMay, all aboard boats decked out in festive Christmas decorations.
The big finale was ofcourse Santa Claus himself, appearing on one of the grandest boats, waving and dancing along to the music.
What made this even better was that our meal came with an unexpected VIP view. Partway through, the staff beckoned us (using hand signals, of course!) onto the balcony, where we and just two other families had a perfect front-row seat to the entire show.
Magellan’s – A Very Lavish Restaurant
Later in the day, we had another sit-down meal, this time at Magellan’s, inside the park’s main fortress.
This restaurant is stunning—a grand dining hall, complete with a huge golden globe at its centre, named after Ferdinand Magellan and themed around The Golden Age of Exploration.
The food was just as good as Oceano, but the atmosphere was quieter than a typical Disney sit-down restaurant. making it more ideal for a romantic evening than lunch with the kids. With so much incredible food available throughout the park, we actually now think that its not necessary to splurg on table-service meals.
Before our meal, we explored the fortress, which is filled with interactive inventions and exhibits. It was fun to roam around, and along the way, we passed a few dedicated guests already seated for the parade—even though it wouldn’t start for a couple more hours!
While the fortress itself was impressive, the language barrier made some of the interactive elements a little confusing, leaving us guessing what we were meant to do.
Wrapping Up DisneySea
The final show of the day at DisneySea was Believe! Sea of Dreams.
A little like Harmonious at Epcot, this farewell spectacle in Mediterranean Harbor was a breathtaking mix of lasers, pyrotechnics, and projection mapping, illuminating the vast performance space of the lagoon. It was the perfect send-off to our time at DisneySea.
We spent two days at DisneySea before returning to Disneyland for one final day. Normally, we would spend longer at Disney, and leaving after just four days felt a little premature. But we had a few more things to see in Tokyo, and in the end, we felt like we had experienced everything we had hoped for.
Staying in Shinjuku – A Unique Surprise
Next, we moved to Shinjuku, and for once in Tokyo, we found ourselves in a surprisingly large apartment with a wraparound balcony. However, the view was unexpected—instead of a cityscape, our apartment overlooked a large cemetery. we still loved it, and in Shinjuku, just walking distance away, we discovered one of our favourite hidden gem restaurants of the entire trip.
Amazing Character Restaurant– Shimonya (Shinjuku)
Shimonya, a kushiyaki (grilled skewers) restaurant, is tucked away in the vibrant Omoide Yokocho area—a historic alleyway famous for its tiny, traditional eateries.
This little restaurant had an open-style kitchen, with no two seats the same height. The atmosphere was incredible, with the chef constantly shouting for the server, and every single space was filled with customers.
Even the most awkward spots—under the stairs, behind the coat rack, or outside protected from the cold by a shower curtain —were all occupied by diners..
It was here that we discovered our love for the simple beauty of cabbage and Kewpie mayonnaise. Everything we ate was delicious, but the raw cabbage, dipped in Kewpie, quickly became a household favourite—so much so that we still eat it weekly now!
A Change of Pace – Yoyogi Park & Meiji Shrine
The next day, we headed to Yoyogi Park, a sprawling, peaceful oasis in the heart of Shinjuku City.
It was a welcome change of pace from the excitement and constant sounds of Disney—a quiet retreat that felt completely removed from the city.
Joggers passed by, musicians set up in quiet corners playing everything from traditional Japanese instruments to jazz saxophones, and we wandered through the wide-open spaces, simply enjoying the calm.
At the heart of the park, we found Meiji Shrine, a place of serene beauty and spirituality.
Passing under the giant Torii gates, we walked along the gravel pathway, taking in the peaceful atmosphere. Following local custom, we took the time to Write our wishes on wooden ema plaques, watching the local we tossed a coin, clapped twice, and made our wish.
We continued exploring the park, stopping to play with the kids and grabbing lunch along the way.
By late afternoon, as the chill of the evening set in, we slowly made our way back into the city—though standing inside Yoyogi Park, it was hard to believe we were still in the middle of Tokyo.
Instant Culture Shock – Takeshita Street
The moment we stepped out of Yoyogi Park and onto Takeshita Street, we were hit with instant culture shock.
One moment, we were surrounded by peace, trees, and the occasional jogger. Next, we were in a neon-lit sensory overload—shoulder to shoulder with a crowd, shop attendants calling out, and the unmistakable "gacha-gacha" sounds of capsule toy machines spitting out their plastic treasures.
We more or less ran through the street to get out the other side, escaping the madness and heading for another hidden gem—Café Reissue.
This small, cosy café is known for its 3D latte art, where the barista transforms any coffee or hot chocolate into a sculpted version of your favourite character.
Dex chose Baymax, while Avery went for her new favourite—LinaBell.
A Packed Final Night in Tokyo
For our last night in Tokyo, we packed in as much as possible:
Dinner overlooking Shibuya Scramble Crossing, watching the organized chaos of the world’s busiest intersection. Ice skating and a bubble show at a Christmas market nearby, a stop at the Disney Store, because obviously, and Gyoza from a "tachigui" (standing) restaurant, where you select your meal from a vending machine outside and, within minutes, it's handed to you through a small service window.
We ended the night—and our entire Tokyo adventure—with Krispy Kreme doughnuts under the famous Godzilla Head at Hotel Gracery Shinjuku, before taking a final walk home unintentionally through the red-light district.
Tokyo: A City of Contrasts
That last night perfectly summed up everything we had learned about Tokyo on this trip.
It is, in many ways, an incredibly practical, logical, and efficient city—yet, at the same time, it is completely unexpected, quirky, and surprising. It keeps you on your toes, in the best possible way.
And we cannot wait to return and explore even more.